From claims to consumer trust, performance isn’t subjective, it’s structured. Discover how cosmetic products are measured, validated and trusted to deliver.
Nadia Zarrouk
What “Performance” Really Means?
In beauty, performance isn’t a feeling, it’s a measurable outcome.
From hydration and barrier repair to sebum control and sensory finish, performance refers to how well a cosmetic product delivers on its promise. It's not about the marketing, it’s about what the product demonstrably does.
Whether you're claiming, "deep hydration," "instant glow," or "8-hour wear," each benefit should be grounded in data, not just intuition.
Performance = the ability to deliver on a promise, with evidence.
The Core Performance Targets
Common areas of performance testing in skincare and cosmetics include:
• Hydration retention (e.g. TEWL, corneometry)
• Skin smoothness or roughness reduction
• Shine control / oil regulation
• Barrier repair efficacy
• Longwear and transfer resistance (for makeup)
• User experience perception (e.g. feel, absorption, finish)
Each one can be measured using defined protocols and more importantly, the right combination of them can become a brand’s strongest form of proof.
Data point: A European Consumer Pulse study (McKinsey, 2022) showed that over 75% of Western European consumers consider product efficacy and safety data “very important” when selecting beauty products.
How It's Actually Measured?
There are three recognised layers of cosmetic performance testing:
1. Instrumental Testing
Objective measurements using devices that assess skin properties like hydration, oil, firmness or elasticity.
Example methods: Corneometer, Sebumeter, Tewameter
2. Clinical Testing
Dermatologist-led evaluations using protocols, scoring systems, and sometimes photographic grading. These may also include bioinstrumentation but add professional human assessment.
Example: Visual grading of wrinkle depth or erythema by trained experts
3. Consumer Perception Studies
Subjective testing on user panels; structured questionnaires about how the product feels, performs or absorbs. While not technically objective, these shape real-world relevance and brand trust.
Why It Matters More Than Ever?
In today’s regulatory and commercial landscape, claim substantiation is no longer optional, it’s foundational.
• Regulators expect all direct and implied claims to be documented and defensible
• Retailers increasingly require supporting data before listing
• Consumers are more sceptical. They don’t just want to be told, they want to be shown
This is formalised under EU Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009, which outlines mandatory safety and substantiation standards for all cosmetic claims.
Fact: According to Forbes, 79% of beauty shoppers express doubts about sustainability and efficacy claims, highlighting demand for proof-backed messaging.
The Strategic Edge for Smart Brands
Performance testing is not just a regulatory formality, it’s a strategic advantage.
Brands that build their claim logic early and test with intention can:
Avoid reformulation due to failed substantiation
Build credibility with retailers and press
Convert more informed, high-intent consumers
Increase investor confidence in their technical edge
Illustrate trust-building in action:
Example: Vogue Business reported that Clarins leads its 2024 Beauty Index due to high consumer trust in its product efficacy.
At Coseer, we integrate testing strategy into development from day one, aligning formulation with future proof.
The Coseer Perspective
Performance isn’t a postscript, it’s designed into the system.
At Coseer, we help brands map their target claims, choose testing pathways that match their market goals and collaborate with independent labs to generate credible, documented evidence.
We also guide professionals through this approach in our course The Foundations of Skincare Product Development, helping learners understand why testing isn’t just about validation it’s about engineering the right decisions from the beginning.
The Takeaway
Promise without proof is a liability.
In today’s beauty market, performance is only powerful when it’s measurable and measured well.
At Coseer, we build evidence into every product journey.
Because in 2025 and beyond, proof isn’t a luxury. It’s your launch standard.
